How industry insiders dress for success

Agents

Some top agents — like Hylda Queally, who represents everyone from Cate Blanchett to Kate Winslet, and Ari Emanuel, whose wife happens to be fashion designer Sarah Staudinger — are still gearing up to close deals. But like everyone else in town who still has a job, most are toning it down, avoiding conspicuously expensive clothes. “You never want to compete with your clients,” as one agent explains THR. “If you outperform them, they will wonder if you are making more money than them. Especially now.” Andrew Weitz, a former WME agent turned style consultant, says he sees a return to pre-pandemic clothing, albeit in a much less ostentatious way: “Now it's a blazer paired with a button-down or a sweater: a mix of professional and casual.” In other words, suits don't always wear suits anymore. (Though his brother, WME's Richard Weitz, hasn't given up his Armanis yet.)

Producers

“For screenings I wear Levi's or Altuzarra giant striped bell-bottoms, a tank top, and Vince jackets in various colors,” he says Mortal combat producer Valerie Van Galder. “People don't hire me for my fashion sense!” But other manufacturers report power with wool and cashmere blends. Shonda Rhimes, who works mostly from her home in Connecticut, always bundles up in super cozy sweaters (often paired with Gucci loafers) from St. John Knits, Chanel, and Veronica Beard. Male producers, meanwhile, still try to wear what they've always worn: “I only ever dress in black,” he says The LordsBill Block. “It requires almost no thought.”

Directors

Blue jeans and baseball caps are practically mandatory while filming on set – and this goes for both Ron Howard and Chloé Zhao. Steven Spielberg often wears denim from top to bottom; Spike Lee is never without his college jacket; and Greta Gerwig wore a utility jacket while filming Barbie (but it wasn't pink). Some directors dress it up a bit: Sofia Coppola sports white shirts and flats, John Woo wears a dress shirt tucked into his pants, Paul Feig sticks to the three-piece suit, and Tim Burton continues to dress in gothic black. .

Studio executives

“Studio bosses no longer wear suits every day,” reports stylist Gallagher. “It's more democratic: everyone is on the same level.” However, that doesn't mean they show up to meetings in ripped jeans. “Less structure, more comfort”, is how manufacturer Andre Caraco defines the powerful new look. “And more sneakers.” Female studio executives are traditionally more fashion purists: Sherry Lansing famously wore Armani suits every day. More recently, Universal president Donna Langley has leaned into avant-garde pieces from Rick Owens, Margiela and The Row, while other female executives have embraced softer, subtler designs, like a Saint Laurent jacket thrown over a dress or skirt well cut, as if it didn't cost $2,200.

Screenwriters

When was the last time you saw Steven Zaillian in a suit and tie? Exactly. “Screenwriters always wear a Levi's or Ace or Carhartt T-shirt and jeans,” notes stylist Meg Gallagher. “Add a denim jacket from Kapital and sneakers: Margiela, Sambas and Gazelles or Adidas Handball Spezial.” Some exceptions: Aaron Sorkin wears more formal shirts, ties, and slacks; Wes Anderson's preppy college blazers are his signature look; Gus Van Sant favors oversized hoodies; while Taika Waititi is impossible to predict. She can show up in anything from a velvet tuxedo to long pearls.

Actors

Two words: cashmere tracksuits. An important celebrity stylist tells it THR which has clients (men and women) who regularly attend meetings wearing two-piece Loro Piana cashmere suits. “They're comfortable, but they cost 10,000 each,” he says. “And everyone who sees them knows it.” Other stars spruce it up a bit… and probably for a lot less money. Hugh Jackman, Ryan Gosling, and Ryan Reynolds all gravitate towards T-shirts and jackets, even off-duty. Brad Pitt often models pieces from his cashmere shirt line, God's True Cashmere. Female stars, meanwhile, combine comfort and fabulousness in everything from loose-fitting dresses to loose-fitting dresses toned down by flats… and, of course, paparazzi-proof sunglasses and hats.

This story appears in the Oct. 30 issue of The Hollywood Reporter magazine. Click here to sign up.